Finger training rock climbing at home reddit. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Wrist curls and reverse wrist curls, plate pinches, dead hangs, and a grip trainer. MembersOnline • Mammoth_Okra4138 ADMIN MOD Apr 1, 2022 · Strains, sprains and other injuries are common among climbers, but they don’t have to be. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Note that bouldering intensity is highly variable, and should be evaluated in terms of specific moves and their impact to the affected finger. . I've been getting into climbing for a month or two now. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. I Boulder V2 and climb 5. Any tips to gain back some mobility ? In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. Mar 17, 2018 · Thought I would share a discussion from Reddit ClimbHarder that folks here might find interesting. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately holding me back. Hey, As years of climbing (and training) goes, I feel that I'm loosing mobility in my fingers. What kind of training can I do at home with limited equipment (pullup bar and dumbells)? I've been doing pullups and half crimp static hangs so far. Here are 19 rock climbing home workouts you can do instead. On climbing days my fingers have started feel fantastic, if I didn't have time during the day I do it as my warm up paired with recruitment pulls. Sign up for Strength Training For Injury Prevention with Dr. Although all of it is doable at home with the right kit. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). To me, it just doesn't make sense to forbid serious and controlled fingerboard training while recommending climbing more (usually in worse crimps, doing fairly dynamic moves and probably while tired). My grip fails on certain holds. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. 8. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Too much intensity + volume together. See full list on trainingforclimbing. Finger There’s so many things that can contribute to injuries and everyone is at different stages of their climbing career, but here’s a couple of key points imo. Some of it can do at home, some at the gym in the middle of doing other stuff. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jared Vagy and you’ll learn the proper way to train, and be on your way to injury-free climbing. Mar 10, 2023 · Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. Most feature a variety of edge sizes, finger pockets, and grips that mimic common hand positions and movements used in rock climbing. The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. Any recommendations for wrist, grip, and finger exercises to get a better hold? Specifically exercises I can do on days off from climbing, with little to no equipment (unless there’s something so awesome that you can’t not recommend it) (Also I can’t put a hang board in my apartment) Thanks y’all! Reddit's rock climbing training community. How do I actually train for climbing? Especially now that im stuck home for quarantine. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. (Hope it's OK to cross-post from another forum!) Definitely makes me interested in trying finger rolls. You should not be finger training until you are 2 years or so into climbing. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Just climb and allow your hands to become acclimated to these new stresses - otherwise you are going to injure yourself. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any May 10, 2022 · Unlike regular climbing hangboards, portable hangboards help you warm up at a crag. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Reddit's rock climbing training community. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed pinky (half crimp, open, 3 finger drag) it seemed worthwhile to train it. com I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing. These are also the perfect tool for at-home training or to get your blood flowing before the real thing at the gym. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. I usually only have enough time to go about 1 day a week. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without it getting in the way of actual climbing. I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. But your training should work both. On the day after climbing days , usually my fingers feel destroyed/sore, and I always feel a lot better doing the routine. Generally two big contributors to causing injuries in my experience are over training. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). Check it out! Reddit's rock climbing training community. In terms of their place in a general finger training routine, I think it makes the most sense to program them 1-3 times a year for 3-6 weeks at a time, mainly in the off season. Any advice on other excercises I should add to my routine that would help with grip strength and climbing in general? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Apr 24, 2023 · This is very helpful when you’re exploring grips that you find challenging, and you can emphasize the different fingers in your grip or experiment with slightly different wrist angles. So if you struggle with situations where you can hit a hold open hand, but need to roll up into a crimp, finger rolls are pretty clearly a good idea. The cumulative fatigue on your fingers is the sum of everything you did in the last few weeks, so people are Reddit's rock climbing training community. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. The typical advice is to rest 1-2 weeks before reintroducing finger training (including climbing) at a reduced intensity, gradually returning to your previous level over 4-6 weeks. For example, I cannot fully flex my middle fingers (L + R). any tips on how to increase grip strength? Something i can do while im not climbing? thanks r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Hi all, I recently got into bouldering and I'm having lots of fun! But the thing that holds me back from this is my fingers and forearm gets tired too fast. So I've been climbing for about 8 months now and I climb around V4/V5 but I've never actually had proper training or anything aside from watching a couple videos when I first started. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. My climbing grade has drastically jumped, I will say all other factors such as sleep, diet, etc were basically the same throughout the injuries and climbing career other than my finger training. If you’ve ever injured a finger pulley, you’re keenly aware of the structure. Just have fun on the wall! You don't need to hangboard! Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger Reddit's rock climbing training community. If you haven’t, you might not even know they exist. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? I’ve thrown grip training in to my weekly routines. MembersOnline • Frequent_Armadillo31 ADMIN MOD May 15, 2021 · Don't want to go to the climbing gym tonight? You don't have to. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. I started reading "The Rock Climbers Training Manual" recently and it says it can take up to 6 years for your finger tendons and ligaments to adapt to handling the stress climbing puts on them. Off the Wall/Training/Recovery To reiterate: the best training for climbing is climbing. I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. Apr 6, 2020 · Follow this at-home, all-levels training routine recommended by Nelson to help maintain your climbing strength and keep you prepared for a return to the gym or crag. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. iuy udra fevwrh jkzodi truqo pacai kklm fbs inzfo yww