What is smearing in climbing reddit. And yes we are scared of falling. On heel up, toe down, I know how to climb technical climbing where I need to toe down on an edge (not a smear) either to maximize contact depending on the angle of the hold or pull hard to rock over the foothold. It’s also easier for me to smear and do moves like heel and toe hooks. Climbing shoes have rubber soles to increase friction between you and the wall. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. Softer shoes allow you to smear on all the volumes and large textured holds in the gym. Mar 26, 2024 · Incorporating smearing into one’s climbing repertoire necessitates practice, patience, and a willingness to embrace new challenges. Yeah it was on slab that I had 'trouble' with some holds and smearing due to the profile. I would use them both for both types of climbing you mentioned, with preference going to whether I expect to be smearing and doing a lot of dynamic foot placements, hard toe hooks, need less precision, pocket foot holds etc. By mastering this technique, climbers can adapt to diverse terrains and rock types, enhancing their versatility as climbers. Hi all, just need some quick input. 11 trad, 5. As climbers venture onto routes featuring smoother surfaces or sparse holds, mastering smearing techniques becomes indispensable for overcoming obstacles and reaching new heights. My footwork can get a little awkward, standing only 5'1" high (all hail short legs), im developing this habit of smearing whenever my survival instinct just kicks in, be it on slabs or terrible tiny foothold (smedging). The shoes themselves are comfortable enough, but I’m trying to get used to the lack of flexibility and smear grip I get with softer shoes. I used to be able to hit 2's on the board when I started, but I shot up to being able to climb v3's, and most v4's. What type of climbing do you do and how does your shoes perform? How do they compare to other Sportiva products and other brands? Any issues? Sportiva shoes fit me way better than any other brand and I am hunting for some new shoes, both for the gym and outdoors. I have tried la sportiva Moccasyms have great smearing ability for when there's nothing, but the soft, thin sole makes them kind of crummy for edging on tiny foot holds. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. g. So yeah, smear away. I've got an old pair for easy/warmup climbs and two aggressive pairs. When Player2 catches Player1 then Player2 tried to dislodge player1 from the wall, Player1 wins if they reach the top without falling, Player2 wins if Player1 falls. In comparison to the first shoes I ever bought (some sort of Evo brand shoe), these newer shoes helped my climbing because they fit my feet really well. If you want improved smearing a softer shoe will help with that, something like the scarpa veloce is moderately downturned and very soft. Aggressive Carrotfueled's guide to climbing shoes (lightly edited by tinyOnion & soupyhands): Shoe Terms Downturned the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot posture. Hi all, any good drills to practice keeping my feet on the wall? Particular small footholds when making bigger moves, my feet… Truth. I’m slipping a LOT on holds and volumes when I shouldn’t be. Foothold eliminates 3. So as much as I like my Vapors, I still have to carry my solutions around to fill in where they come short, where the only downside of the solutions was Well, pain. I also have instinct S in 43 (-1 size) and they are much better for smearing and my toes are not nearly as curled but they are also a softer shoe all around and the toe rubber is much stretchier. I've been climbing for about 2 years now and my footwork is pretty good so I don't think it's to blame. You need that weight to push it against the wall and create friction. Currently I am in Moccasyms (mediocre fit) indoors and Miura VS (good fit) outdoors. I am 23 votes, 47 comments. Feb 9, 2023 · Smearing is a common climbing technique utilized in both indoor and outdoor rock climbing. I prefer aggressive shoes even on face or slab climbing, but it's way more of a comfort preference. my Scarpa Force. Your climbing shoe rubber has a lot of friction only if there is a lot of force being applied to it. Pushing off the wall with the flagging foot to help you move in the opposite direction. Anything 4mm or above tends to be stiff. No other shoes at all. For smearing on sandstone, grit or indoor climbing a soft shoe like the Veloce is likely to be very good. Although the move may seem straightforward, it’s not easy to master this fundamental climbing technique. Also I couldn't reach some high foots due to the curved toes, when it was never an issue with the flat shoe to begin with. If you want to stand on tiny pebbles on granite or grit, or small limestone edges, then a stiffer pair could be nice like the Tenaya Iati or Scarpa Vapour series. Updates: Yesterday I was doing indoor toprope climbing. I am relatively new to climbing. That said i don’t get great smearing performance either due to curled toes. In terms of scarpa and la sportiva, look for XS grip 2 rubber with a thin or absent midsole. Questions I’m hunting for my third pair of climbing shoes, and I’d like to know what shoe is your all-around go-to climbing shoe! What pair of climbing shoes doesn’t hurt you too much to wear around the base of the crag, yet is technical enough to have you sticking every smear like gum and finessing every infinitesimally small toe hold? The downturn helps with steeper climbing, helping you to pull your body closer to the wall with your toes, but smearing on vertical faces works best when you keep your heels lower than the foothold, which is harder to do with a stiff downturned shoe. My lace-ups are deteriorating and I'm looking to upgrade now but to a shoe with a similar fit and stiffness. . The heel does have a bit of air, but it has not popped for me so I am fine with it. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I climb 5. It's not that the foot slips but the force I generate is essentially directed 90° from the wall, this keeps my foot glued but it also puts enormous stress on my fingers. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Once warmed up they seem to be flexing more . They are great for smearing on walls and volumes thanks to the grip 2 rubber and the softness of the soles but get very slippery when you start trying to edge and work on overhangs. Usually climb 3 to 4 times a week if life permits. Commonly left out in the practice of smearing is the importance of trusting it. Coming from XS Grip 2 and Xs Edge, this feels like an insane downgrade. Aggressive/downturned/cambered shoes have a curve to them that naturally puts your foot in a pulling position. I have been bouldering for 10 months, and I started using the kilter board regularly. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's not like if you get solutions you can just step anywhere I'd just focus on improving your technique. Even smearing against the wall I seldom feel stable. When you do the heel down smear, that means your pressing your foot into the wall to maintain friction. Is this just a matter of breaking My old pair are soft, and I wanted to start working on climbing with a more aggressive shoe type, since I feel I’ve climbed long enough to start considering them. No hands climbing 2. I do really like them for their good smearing capabilities and the soft and sticky rubber. Currently I mostly climb in LS Theory's. Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. Is this a common sentiment or am I just insane? I’m getting them resoled to replace the rubber cus imo it’s not worth climbing in if I don’t feel Heel hooks are a dream in these, edging is great, smearing sucks for the first month of break in. You can get new shoes if you want but it's unlikely your shoes are the reason you you're slipping If you are gym climbing, softer shoes are better. One of the big things I personally noticed when transitioning from indoor to outdoor climbing was how much more smearing was required outdoors. TC Pros are the exact opposite because they have a thick, hard sole--great edging, not so great smearing. The secrets start with smearing and maximizing rubber contact. 60 votes, 30 comments. And for what it’s worth, the Testarossas are more aggressive than the Muiras, but I can perform equally as I currently have the evolve shamans and although these are great at climbing overhangs, they tend to lack on edges and smearing. But problems overlapping volumes allow the use of volumes to complete routes. There's lots missing, so offer feedback and potential additions in the comments and I'll do my best to curate this post into something we can refer people/the FAQ to. Player1 starts climbing, after 10 seconds Player2 starts climbing the adjacent wall, both top roping. The idea would be to direct that force as much as possible in a parallel fashion so it actually helps my hand/arms (the way I do it in the Hi all! I have been climbing for 2. Not much you can do to speed up break in other than climb in them. Climbing a hard project sometimes calls for one shoe for the key heel and the other shoe for a smear. I can smear efficiently in vertical situations but I can't seem to do it in overhngs. Smearing is def allowed and not considered cheating Though tbh I don't know that shoes make that big a difference. Of the aggressive shoes , one has a better heel and the other is slightly better at smearing. Understanding the mechanics of smearing, when to use it, and the techniques for effective application can significantly enhance a climber’s overall performance. I gym climb 2-3/week, primarily sport climb when outside (a variety of styles but not too much overhang at this point) and occasionally boulder outside. The sizing is the same. Stiff shoes make better all rounders than soft shoes. 5 years and am currently climbing in women's Miura Lace Ups. Thickness of the sole matters too. Regardless of shoe, don’t go downsizing - it won’t make you a better climber and will only make your feet hurt. Something like the Chimera or Instinct VSR sized down might perform better on small holds while also giving better sensitivity and smearing simply because you sized them properly for that. Size them snug so Jun 11, 2024 · The four slab climbing secrets covered here are broken down with easy-to-follow cues to help you execute on the wall. I've loved them for everything. I don't feel so confident smearing on the wall with Solution compared to other non-aggressive shoes e. Other than that then they are good for toe-hooking and overhang where you really need to press your toes in to small pockets so you don't drop your feet. I think the whole smear vs edging argument boils down to how you apply pressure to the wall with respect to your foot's rubber. I'm afraid I'll destroy my shoes by putting putting them in natural vinegar or simply in the washing machine (in a washing bag, of course). These shoes are currently doing well for indoor bouldering! Still a little bit of heel movement up, the heel slides to where the tension Rand holds it in. Smear poorly (on purpose) What Climbing Shoes Are Best for Smearing? The importance of the rubber sole Flat versus See full list on thewanderingclimber. Today I am doing indoor bouldering. I'm curious as to what others think of the Vibram rubber You’ve been climbing for a couple of months, it doesn’t make financial sense to buy either of these shoes since you probably won’t make use of them and they will not make you climb better. It makes it easy to do precise footwork on smaller holds. I'm slipping holds that I would never slip on using the shitty beat up evo's the gym rents out. Very aggressive shoes are good for small feet and over hand, where soft shoes are great for smearing and such. Once mastered, it can significantly enhance a climber’s progression, especially on slab-like surfaces and competition problems. I excitedly took them to the gym and was surprised to find I cannot smear on the wall, like at all. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Not sure which of these would work better for me and would This is a brief attempt to wrangle all of our "OMG what climbing shoe" posts in one general direction. Glossary Downturned - the general shape of the shoe, and more specifically the angle of the toe and foot posture. On steeper walls, this helps set up your toes to not just push downward on holds, but I was wondering what the best way to getting rid of the stench in my bouldering shoes is. The home of Climbing on reddit. I know both solutions and theory’s are more high end but I do climb 4x a week now and really would love to stick with it. Toe hook leaves something to be desired. Smearing has never been the best, the edge on it wore out quickly, and I now have problems trusting my feet in this pair of shoes. com Oct 22, 2024 · Smearing is an essential climbing technique that allows climbers to navigate challenging routes with confidence and skill. As everyone knows, when you first start out as a newbie climber there is an overwhelming I've been climbing for 2 years, mostly climbing 6a - 6b+ ish routes. I would go for a comfortable pair of shoes for everyday climbing. Aug 4, 2023 · What Is Smearing in Climbing? Smearing vs edging Heel position Hips position How to Get Better at Smearing Foot placement Making small steps Trusting your feet Smearing Drills 1. The main critiques of stiff shoes are that they don’t bend and conform to smearing on volumes as well, and they are less sensitive so it is This is my first crack at a shoe review, I wanted to give an insightful perspective of my experience with this climbing shoe for new and experienced climbers alike. The old pair saves wear on the better shoes. If you are coming from a beginner shoe they will take some getting used to but you won't be able to go back to the flimsy sole a beginner shoe provides. Slab Climbing Tips and Tricks Maximizing Rubber Contact with the wall when smearing. Learn how these techniques enhance balance and stability on different surfaces. Jul 6, 2024 · What is smearing in climbing? Rather than a traditional foothold, the climber uses the surface of the rock (Image credit: Getty Images) Smearing is a rock climbing term used to describe the action of placing the sole of your shoe onto the rock to create a high amount of friction on relatively featureless slabs. I was wanting a shoe that is primarily good at edges as I don't smear all too often but being ok at smearing would be nice. If they didn't want people smearing they should've made the wall smooth like in many Asian climbing gyms. The comps should just be a little softer and probably better for gym climbing and the regular solutions are likely the better choice for edging and climbing outdoors. The kilter board is such an amazing tool for getting better at climbing, so I have a question to ask people: Why do so many people hate the For me medium stiff shoes (instincts, mastia, phantoms) are amazing bit board climbing and overhangs outside while my softer shoes (iati, instinct vsr, solution comp) are great for smearing. Shoe shape has everything to do with foot shape and hardly anything to do with climbing The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. A little background, I started climbing about a year ago with a couple groups of friends. The last year I have been using La Sportiva Skwarma and I only have good thing to say about them. about 2 months ago. Oct 22, 2024 · Smearing is particularly useful in different climbing environments, from sport climbing to bouldering. 12 We occasionally play Gladiators. As your are fairly new you might not have a preferred type of climbing yet. I currently have la sportivas and love the fit. I did have this talk with someone in my local boulder hall sometime ago but I can't quite remember what he said to me. 1. Then if you wanted max smearing you’d get a slightly too big Drago or Veloce or Zenist to just get a ton of rubber on the rock. In my research, I came to the dragos and multiple people (online) said they were good at edges. Aug 17, 2022 · Climbers often neglect limbs that can be especially useful for climbing, like the head, shoulder, knee, and hip. After going every other day for 3 weeks I finally committed and bought my first pair of climbing shoes (la sportiva tarantulace). This can result in a high heel up position depending on the exact situation. My reasoning is that the downsides of stiff shoes can be mostly mitigated, whereas with soft shoes, there are some things you simply cannot do. Would be best to check in with the employees, my gym is tapeless, walls are free game, smearing. then the Theory is great - if precision and control is your preference, solution/solution comp. About 2 mm of space; not bad compared to my dragos which has more, and my Vapor S which has a bit more . I am still looking for the perfect climbing shoes for my feet and am wondering whether something from Unparallel might fit the bill. One negative thing I find about them is smearing. I naturally do this and tbh I find it quite fun, but is it a bad thing and should I purposefully try not to cut loose? Jan 11, 2022 · Sometimes they’re climbing “moderate” 2,000-3,000-foot big walls that are a technical mix of face climbing, smearing, and crack climbing from fingers to off-width. Depends a bit on you climbing. If you don’t trust a smear and put minimal weight on your feet, then it won’t hold. I notice that most of the nearest crags ive been to are limestones (nightmare). I’ve been climbing about a year and a half and I notice that I tend to cut loose a lot when I’m doing problems. Warning: potentially controversial opinion incoming. Im mostly bouldering but will top rope slab on and off as well. But essentialy the basic description of toeing in. Skwamas are also versatile shoes that I like a lot for bouldering. I had a climbing movement class that talked about flagging and smearing at the same time. I just started climbing about a year ago indoor and am definitely in the market for some new shoes. Apr 21, 2020 · Knowing the right climbing techniques is crucial for becoming better. Nov 15, 2023 · Discover the difference between smearing and edging in climbing. This post details what is smearing, how to smear, common mistakes to avoid, and more. fglhwpq pmgen hybdvch xfq waow zeaoo fmhgr lypqm jwg kongx