Best belay device reddit As a first belay device. I'll have to change the belay device for singlepitch because the german alpine club now recommends auto-blocks or assisted breaking devices. Lol how is that at all close to the same thing? One is a completely outdated method. Allows for two ropes, so you can rap normally without having to block your rope. The ATC doesn’t have this. you are attached to the rope with a knot. I'm considering the Smart or the Salewa Ergo . Grigris are very common so an obvious choice, and they’re versatile if you get into outdoor and multipitch climbing for top belaying and even rappelling. The safest belay devices would be stuff like the grigri or trango cinch, but they sacrifice handling. GriGri's are great and all but that doesn't make every other devices obsolete. Get an ATC and use that, learn to belay with that. Top rope is where a GriGri really stands out. On my harness while climbing most multipitch routes I have a belay/rap device, an extra sling with a locker, and a couple extra biners. In my opinion best of geometric assisted devices on the market right now. If it’s more for occasional scrambling, then I would go with a super munter. The device should work well for lead belaying. For belay devices, I am between the ATC XP and the ATC Pilot: If you do need to rap / belay, a thin rope is a double whammy since you get less friction from the device and it's harder to grip and apply friction to the break strand. My current gym now requires any type of auto locking device because humans make mistakes and get complacent. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 4 votes and 16 comments Giga is wider so easier to manage thicker ropes with, especially using guide mode. ATCs make better belayers, even when you switch over to a grigri. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I have tried the double carabiner trick, and in my experience it does not offer adequate additional friction with skinny ropes like this. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. The Trango Cinch is Trango's old assisted belay device. I learned to lead belay when someone handed me a rope, said "you know what you're doing", and setoff up a 5. The safeguard is so popular because it can be used like a prussic/ropeman1 and also allows you rappel down at anytime if something went wrong, instead of having to switch over to a separate device. Follower has a nut tool, maybe a water bottle. Some prefer high friction ones, some prefer ones where it's easier to feed rope when you need it, there's always a trade off. Frozen ropes? Twin ropes. I'd still say the grigri is better for safety since the smart wont always lock up(if the biner gets turned around when you're belaying), but overall, since it can do everything, it is an awesome device. 3mm. It also takes rope diameters down to 7. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. As a belayer, your partner trusts you to catch them when they fall and get them back to the ground safely once they’ve finished a route. Pretty much the best ATC style belay device there is. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Both belay devices should be fine over time you’ll get used to the belay difference… If you really want it to feel different you could try an ATC Alpine… but their intended use is 8. My options are Petzl GriGri (3) & Beal Birdie. I would advocate for learning on the Jul2 - if you can lead belay using a Jul2, you should be able to lead belay using any tubular style device, should the need ever arise. Better than a GriGri for TR solo since the rope runs almost straight through the device in the open position so if you put some weight on the end of the rope, you don't have to manually pull it through. On the matter of fixed-point belay, guides from AMGA, IFMGA, ACMG (Canadian), ENSA (French guide school) and DAV (German) has recommended munter hitch or tube style device, and recommended against the use of Grigri bc of less rope slippage, and potential increased force on the top placement. Mammut Smart Alpine. A prusik sling for a chalkbag belt is a good idea, the minitrax is redundant. Hi all! I'm about to buy a new assisted braking belay device mainly for lead climbing. At a Glance. Below, you’ll find the best climbing hardware available in 2024. There are some belay devices being made specifically for smaller diameter ropes. The grigri group generally needed more reminders to keep their brake hand on the rope and to pay attention to what was going on. NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. This is #1 for me. 1–10. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure (edited to reframe in answer of original post! thanks for giving me this space to air my grievances!). lowering: you stay on belay, and the belayer lowers you down using his belaying device. Neither of them. Whether you are a gym climber, trad climber, sport climber, alpine climber or Basically the best belay device is the one you feel is like an extension of your own body, you should be comfortable using it without having to think about it. The best device for you is the one you know how to use the best. Mago 8 and Scream are your best choices if you are going to be doing this often. Jul 11, 2024 · Almost 100% of the time, the best setup for this sort of belay is an auto-blocking tube device secured to the anchor in guide mode. That's true, and I'm not the paragon of safety, admittedly. Dmm pivot. In ice climbing and trad climbing using double ropes is the norm and requires a tube style. So they're less than ideal for a first device. I actually think they are putting themselves at risk of litigation by requiring older technology. It’s important to mention that these kind of devices work best with dedicated belaying carabiner. Absolutely love it, best device on the market IMO Has the assisted braking feature of a GriGri but at a fraction of the weight. Learn how to tie one (plenty of good youtube videos) with the device you plan to use (most commonly taught with an ATC, but works about the same with others) and you'll have a quick, secure way to block off a rappel and go hands free. A Grigri is a belay device that comes with an assisted break feature, meaning if your BF accidentally lets go of the rope while belaying the device will catch (stopping the rope and preventing the climber from falling). 8 is right at the lower end for the ATC XP so you'll have minimal friction plus in a mountaineering situation you'll probably be wearing gloves which will make it even harder That's a ridiculous reason. Most devices (except possibly the Pivot) don't lower well in guide mode The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. Most belay devices should have information on the intended rope size so I would double check that your rope fits. You need to learn how to belay with a class and test people on how to belay properly. For example, you'd still able to belay if you forget your preferred lefty device, or if someone hands you one because they prefer to be belayed with it. I did testing like this with a 5mm hyperstatic line that I used in my crazy homebrew AK setup. As it turns out, you can indeed pull someone out of a crack with a Micro Traxion on a 5mm line. The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. Many still learn on tubes with no problem. Gloves only for aid or FA. By that I mean, I’m fine with someone who uses an ATC(they have their valid use cases such as twin ropes/ rappels etc- even then there is the mega jul and smart alpine), but if they get all I love using some sort of ATC for lead belay personally. The guide mode doesn't need the ropes to be inserted contradictory to every other device ever made so its simpler for newer partners to use. However, I've noticed that some climbers prefer using ATCs or Mammut devices, arguing they're safer and less prone to mechanical failure. Editor’s Choice: Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip Kit ($225) Probably because they learned how to belay without the idea in their heads that the belay device would catch the climber if they were either sloppy or not paying attention. Sep 21, 2023 · In 2019, Petzl released the newest version, and we think it’s the best overall belay device available in 2024. for when I climb with a belayer who is more comfortable with a specific device, that doesn't automatically provide this A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device. If you’ve top roped a bit and are jumping into lead climbing we think the Beal Birdie is the best beginner belay device for lead climbers. I've mainly used GriGri devices for belaying, as that's what my gym provides. One belay device and an extra locker is plenty. g. The belay is more ergonomic and less constraining since the device is not attached to the belayer’s harness , and when the climber falls or weights the rope, the climber strand locks down on the brake strand and Sep 14, 2020 · Best Beginner Belay Device For Lead Climbing. All my climbing partners use one so it’s not really an issue that comes up. when used correctly an ATC is a time-tested, effective device. I've taught people how to toprope belay on the ground, and after a handful of run through done the same. Devices like the BD pilot/Elderid Jul/Mammut Smart are becoming more common too, and are less expensive. Many of the primary belay devices people have suggested look good for this purpose, I will be giving those a closer look - it would still be nice though, to find a backup that can work alongside the primary belay device - e. 6 in a gym while watching me over their shoulder. If it doesn't rappel well, it won't lead belay well. I have spoke to alot of people that say the ATC is best because it is simple, versatile and powerful and then they have some sort of accident and they come back saying 'I will never climb with anything but an auto locking belay device'. The OP needs the safest device in this situation not the lightest or the simplest. On Edelrid's website, they state that it's designed for 7. If the grooves are too wide, the rope can twist and pinch in guide mode, or worse, actually change position and not lock at all. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. GriGri seems like a "safe" choice but stainless steel construction of Birdie could be more durable. Lowering is easier also the orientation of the belay loop for guide mode is 90° compared to the BD ATC wich orientates the rope either up or down on a anchor. While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. 5mm ropes. Gyms usually have the top-ropes doubled around the anchor. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. 7. When I teach people to belay I always have them learn on an ATC as I’ve seen too many climbers depending on the assisted braking of other devices, leading them to do unsafe things like take their hands off the brake strand without tying off the belay. I've encountered this fairly often, especially when climbing with new partners. I love this device, it’s light, small, ergonomically designed and intuitive if you’ve used ATC before. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. Guide mode works great, no issues on multipitch. Apr 29, 2024 · Still, climbing hardware continues to evolve, from refinements on classic gear like belay devices, to more-ergonomic iterations of staples like quickdraws, to more compact and lighter designs. So the best handling belay device would probably be the petzl reverso 2 (with the loop for autoblock mode), but it doesn't have any breaking capabilities when you're belaying the leader or using a toprope. If weight is not an issue for you, I'd say this is one of the best overall belay devices you can get. com Apr 27, 2021 · Here are the best belay devices: Petzl GriGri 2; Black Diamond ATC-Guide; Edelrid Mega Jul; Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso; Black Diamond ATC-XP; How to Choose the Best Belay Device for Your Needs. You are mostly passive rappeling: you slide down along the rope, using your rappelling device (same as a belaying device, but used differently), the belayer is not involved, you are the active party. Benefit of the ATC is it doubles as a rappel device and it’s much easier to use. Honestly I wouldn’t climb with someone who refuses to use one. It’s similar to an ATC to use, pays out slack easier than other assisted braking devices, and is easy for most to pick up. There's a ton of devices to use to get out of the tree: Figure 8, ATC, Belay devices, and you can always just rappel using a munter hitch. I can top rope with a braking device, lead belay, and rappel with two strands from a singular device All of these devices are less than half the cost & weight of a GriGri. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. The device is compatible with ropes measuring 8. Sep 20, 2021 · There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. Belay devices that aren't GriGri's aren't outdated. For belay devices, I am between the ATC XP and the ATC Pilot: I've mainly used GriGri devices for belaying, as that's what my gym provides. It's easier to do safety checks on a device that other climbers know. Inattention is more dangerous than improper belay technique, for example the belay is chatting up a cute girl while the climber is running out a bunch of slack. Mega is hard/impossible to use in manual mode, and you can't pull rope through the device when setup in rappel in manual mode. A new small rope will always be fast, those are treated to be more durable so they’re a bit shiny? Anyway it’ll just lower really fast. 10 top rope range, looking to lead in due time) looking for some advice on purchasing a belay device and carabiner. Even if your belay lets go of the ropes completely, you'll lower at a rate that isn't going to seriously hurt you. They're super easy to learn, and use mostly the same "muscle memory" movements as any regular tube device. You’re not at a disadvantage per se. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. This is the best answer. I much prefer if my partner has an assisted braking device. Beginner climber (a few years it a very low frequency, 5. Grigris can encourage lazy, and poor belay habits. I also think it’s more intuitive to understand the mechanics involved in belaying with a tube style device (although since you’re already familiar with TR lead belaying Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. If you have any of them, there’s no need to throw it away for something else. I'm curious about the safety differences between these devices. 5-11 mm. 0 mm rope diameters and I would wager that it performs better on the thinner end of the spectrum. It’s worth repeating that these are all capable belay devices. I use Jul2 indoors and outdoors on sport single pitch climbs. Several of them (Edelrid's Giga Jul / Mega Jul / Micro Jul, and Mammut's Smart Alpine) are two-stranded, and work great for rappels and two-rope belays. I'm bound to this recommondation because i want to teach kids climbing and then you have to follow the recommondations of the alpine club. jszm rthyjc ddkxc tvth ickufx yow xlrc iwger gialsc ktyfz