Pbus belay Mar 16, 2025 · The PBUS belay technique can be effectively utilized for rock climbing safety by ensuring the belayer maintains proper positioning, keeps a firm grip on the rope, uses a belay device correctly Oct 15, 2021 · Top-roping involves many of the same belay techniques as lead climbing. Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA) is a leading provider of rock climbing, caving, leadership development and experiential education in Thailand. The result was the PBUS Universal Belay Standard. The second person stands facing the primary belayer and pulls hand over hand on the rope (essentially pulling away from the primary belayer, through the GriGri). Taking a belay test at The Pad? Check out this handy dandy study guide (save a tree and print only if absolutely necessary, please). Over the last 20 years, climbing has grown a lot. • Demonstrate pre-climbing checks and commands. Part 1: Applying Top Rope Belaying to Lead Belaying True, hanging belays are a pain in the ass with PBUS. Oct 22, 2013 · One of the most important baseline skills is toprope belaying. In that scenario, I use guide mode on an ATC to belay the second climber (no PBUS), and a leader is just going to deal with a little extra slack for a moment, climbing past high clip if they choose to high clip. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. Mar 10, 2025 · Most belay classes will teach you the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) method. The brake hand must grip the brake strand at all times and the system must be in brake position when sliding the brake hand up. Pull the brake strand away from the Jun 28, 2018 · PBUS Belay Technique Here at Sportrock we teach the P. For a hip belay, rather than a friction-plate device, the older Slip-Slide-Slap belay method (Correct and incorrect slip-slap-slide belay technique) works well for managing the rope. Almost universally, most guides are now teaching the PBUS technique to beginners. The top-roping belay technique commonly known as PBUS resonates with climbing instructors and mentors because it emphasizes the fundamental principles so distinctly. We’ve got the scoop on what we’re looking for in order to pass your belay test with flying colors. PBUS is an acronym that stands for "pull, brake, under, slide. Jun 19, 2023 · PBUS. This method has the transition zone up by the belayers head, not down by the waist. Apr 28, 2025 · A universal rule for belaying is that your brake hand, which is palm down on the brake strand of the rope, should never come off the rope. This article covers belay with a tubular device. It can mean the difference between safety and danger. Discuss palm down vs. This includes climbing terminology, equipment inspection and usage, proper knot tying, safety commands, and belay technique. Sep 25, 2021 · My youth program (and also my climbing gym for after-midnight programs) requires backup belayers, and half-heartedly trains backup belayers to use a hip belay. There are a couple of methods of belaying, but the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) is perhaps the most popular. palm up. PBUS: Pull - Brake - Under - Slide. Belay Technique - PBUS or Bust! The following are the standard motions we require at LCC for safe belay technique. We will be asking you about: 3 safety checks for a harness: Snug and above hipbones; Buckles are double backed Jul 18, 2019 · Special devices: @imsodin is right in suggesting a GriGri. Gyms (and guides) have adopted the PBUS as the preferred technique. • Catch simulated falls and demonstrate the proper lowering technique. B. PBUS has been the industry standard for quite a while and it has been proven to be easier to learn and safer for beginners. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Jul 24, 2024 · Learning how to belay correctly is key in climbing. Brake hand must be kept on the rope at all times. I use PBUS, and as the blog discusses, it's becoming almost universal now to teach beginners PBUS. PBUS is an acronym for the following: P - Pull B - Brake or Bottom US - Up-Slide In other words, your guide hand is on the line coming out of the device and running up the rock to the climber. Perform the the PBUS belay method. Don't beat yourself up over it. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. 1. PBUS stands for Pu This video explains how to check a climber before climbing and how to belay using the PBUS technique Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing will also start teaching PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under-slide, aka "Pull, Brake, Up-Slide") belay instead of the old fashioned SSS (Slip, Slap, Slide) belay in this year's basic course. This locks the rope into the belay device, keeping your climber A climber rests on a belay rope in a gym surrounded by colorful holds. Many devices have drawings to indicate how to place the rope. Momentum instructs with and encourages use of the Pull-Break-Under-Slide (PBUS) belay method. Rock gyms don’t require belay tests to trick or scare you away. Belay with the PBUS Technique. Grab the Jun 21, 2023 · The easiest way to remember how to belay is PBUS or Pull, Break, Under and Slide. S. com/playlist?list=PLLALQuK1NDrjugIQA3Te01g3ksXghWCMR--Rockin’ Rock Climbing CommoditiesMomentum Climbing Harness: http://a PBUS: Pull - Brake - Under - Slide. The hand transition is securely in the braking position, and it’s hard to imagine the belayer losing control if the climber were to fall while the hand was sliding. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Maga Mar 17, 2022 · Like all belay devices, (PBUS) technique to take slack out of the climbing system, which maintains hands-on contact with the braking strand throughout. Brake hand must be kept on the rope at all times Jun 8, 2017 · Sure, the brake-under-slide (or PBUS) is the most redundant and reliable belay, but when you're standing on the 6th pitch of a rotten dolomite face trying to pull 70m of rope while dealing with rope drag so bad you can't tell if you're only taking up the slack or up-hauling your second, then you really don't care about your handwork. 等；以及輔助制動確保器(Assisted Braking Device)，如：GriGri, LifeGuard…. PULL: Pull the climber strand towards the belay device with your guide hand. Demonstrate correct PBUS belay technique (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) and lowering technique. Feb 13, 2018 · One hand holds the rope above belay device and the other below. thailandclimbing. You will use the same PBUS belay technique for both the ATC and Grigri. Note: PBUS is top-rope specific. Demonstrate A-B-C positioning Understand belay from above techniques The break position is made stronger by two things: by having the belay arm under compression and by being closer to the center of gravity. Load your belay device. Apr 3, 2018 · Just to add, one the of advantages of PBUS over hand-over-hand method is that it is theoretically easier to transition into lead belay mode when you learn to always have ONE hand on the rope, because with lead belay you generally have one hand feeding out slack, and the other one being the brake hand. Sometimes PBUS belaying isn't an option because of the belayer's position. com**Climbing is inherently dangerous. The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist. Feb 1, 2022 · A correctly rigged Black Diamond ATC. Aug 19, 2013 · Full Playlist: https://www. PBUS is a basic belaying technique that allows you to safely and steadily control the slack in the rope as your partner ascends. Compare strong and weak brake positions. The PBUS method—which stands for pull, brake, under, slide—is a tried and true technique that will ensure your hand never leaves the brake strand, while providing a safe belay. What is the difference between a tube-style device and an assisted braking belay device? Assisted braking devices are classified as either mechanical or geometric and aid in belaying by providing extra stopping force via the geometry of the device or a camming mechanism that grabs the rope in the event of a fall or the belayer losing control of the brake strand of the rope. The document has moved here. Jan 16, 2020 · Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well— is essential! You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. During the above step, it is not always possible to keep the lower hand behind the braking plane, especially on lower angle climbs. For lead belaying, the belayer should slide the brake hand back, sequestering a quantity of slack to be given to the leader. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. Now, it’s PBUS time. on belay? belay on Follow These Five Steps For Good PBUS Belaying Technique start pull brake under slide Oct 3, 2014 · Knowing how to belay properly and safely is one of the most essential skills in rock climbing. 目前台灣的攀岩館都可以接受 PBUS 的確保法，也是目前國際在用的確保法。因此就安全上的因素及技術更新，頂繩攀登及運動攀登下方確保的狀況下，我們目前已經不接受或教授 SSS 的確保方式! 實際的 PBUS 動作可參考下面由Climbing 雜誌所拍攝的影片介紹 Sportrock's Ultimate Guide to Top Rope Belaying will walk you through the process of top rope belaying using the PBUS method. U. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Verbalize and identify all safety checks for climber and belayer; Catch an announced and an unannounced fall. Failure to comply will invalidate this training module attempt. The sequence we follow is PULL, BRAKE, UNDER, SLIDE (PBUS). VERSO Compact, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and for rappelling REVERSO® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor GRIGRI® + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, optimized for learning Jun 30, 2023 · If you let your brake hand get too close to the belay device, you minimize your holding power and also risk your hand getting pinched in the device, so make sure you’re aware of where it is at all times. Every bit of rope and gear matters. Belay stance: Discuss: How to anticipate direction of force on belayer; orient stance to If its your first time in the gym, we will give you a quick belay check to ensure that you have the proper knowledge and skills needed to safely belay. The PAS is usually in the way, and you can't move. Upon Dec 20, 2018 · Proper belay techniques using the PBUS System. 隨著裝備的改良與創新，確保技術也會因此而有部分的改變，目前最普遍的兩種確保器類型分別為管式確保器(Tube Belay Device)，如：ATC, Mantis…. " One attaches the GriGri on their harness as usual. Pull or take in the rope slack as the climber ascends the climbing wall. As your climber ascends, take away the remaining slack in the rope by pulling the brake end of the rope up and out of the belay device. Knowing how to belay well is more important than ever. With the old Hands Up method, the belay device was always in the open/pulley position, and the only way to Dec 1, 2016 · This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. Mar 21, 2024 · Getting your belay certification is an exciting step on your rock climbing journey. In this case the Slip Slap Slide technique may be a better option. Brake: Pull your brake hand down and toward you. They are in place to ensure you know the safety procedures so you and those you climb with have an enjoyable and PBUS is taught to first timers because you can maintain a death grip with the brake strand. Load the rope into your belay device at this point. Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos in 2012 to demonstrate a number of skills and techniques. Set up your belay device by putting the rope in it following the instructions. B for Brake. Have your dominant hand on the lower or brake end and your non-dominant hand or guide hand on the upper or climbers end. Then lift your brake strand and pull on it to draw that amount of slack through the belay device. Types of belay devices: Your belay device is used to manage rope slack/tension, catch a fall and lower your climbing partner. In my experience, even gyms that teach PBUS let tunnelling slide if you arent being a total idiot about it. • Belay (manage the rope) such that a brake hand is maintained on the rope at all times. Before you tie in or set Make sure there is minimal slack in the rope from the climber to your belay device. During this step the hand above pulls down while at the same time the lower hand pulls the rope through the belay device. Its not comfortable or fast, but its harder to get wrong. **Climbing is inherently Correctly set up an ATC or Grigri belay device. While belaying may seem straightforward, there are a lot of ways a belayer can make a climber feel safe and secure Moved Permanently. 161 of Freedom of the Hills, 8th ed. Taking Slack: PBUS Technique. Dec 15, 2020 · Regardless of your belay device, these rules are always true: First of all, make sure your device is compatible with the diameter of your climbing rope: not all belay devices work on every rope. youtube. It’ll allow you to venture beyond the auto-belays and boulder mats, form belaytionships, and challenge yourself in new ways. Here is a good overview of the different belay Correctly set up an ATC or Grigri belay device. I'm a little surprised your gym allows ATCs, unless I'm missing something? My gym requires assisted belay devices like a GriGri for top rope and lead belay. Pull: Pull down on the climber’s strand. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. The PBUS method is widely endorsed as the most effective way to minimize misuse and prevent bad habits amongst new How Risky or Not Risky is to Tunnel Brake Hand Up when you are taking Slack during Lead Belay?I have seen many arguing about this, so decided to do these exp Watch the video below and answer the questions related to a proper PBUS Belay. This video is not a substitution for personal instruction with a professional instructor o Our Belay Class teaches participants the essential skill of top-rope belaying. Demonstrate proper voice command sequences while belaying. Remember to lock your belay carabiner. While this video covers in deta The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. PBUS stands for Pull, Brake, Under, Slide. To handle the demands of top-rope belaying, use a technique called the PBUS method. May 6, 2012 · PBUS stands for “Pull, Brake, Under, Slide” and the major difference is that the brake hand is UNDER the belay device in its resting position thus the device is always locked and ready to catch a fall, unless you are pulling rope. Locked carabiner attached to belay loop, climber’s strand top, brake strand on the bottom. Belay techniques vary for many reasons. Inspect the Harness: Ensure both you and your climber’s harnesses are properly fastened with doubled-back buckles. However, top-rope belaying mostly involves bringing in rope slack cast off by the climber. Photo: Elliott Natz. (Pull, Break, Under, Slide) method of top-rope belaying: As the climber moves up the wall the belayer will PULL up slack through the belay device. As with top roping, the climber’s strand should exit the device from the hole closest to you. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright We’ll be demonstrating the PBUS method of belaying. 等。 Sep 8, 2024 · Discover essential belay test requirements for safe climbing. The PBUS belay method is an excellent belay technique that ensures the brake hand never leaves the rope. http://www. Feb 9, 2020 · How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. 2. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the belayer, literally, holds the climber’s life in their hands. Check the Belay Device: Confirm the rope is threaded correctly through the belay device with the brake side positioned for easy handling. DO NOT click on “SUBMIT” until you see “Answer Validation – All answers are correct” and the “I affirm…” statement appears. The PBUS technique involves using short, controlled, repetitive movements. Other Belay Devices. PBUS. Being a good belayer means knowing your gear and talking well with your partner. I will analyze this by comparing this to an older, less efficient belay method, commonly known as slip, slap, slide. I'll guide you through techniques, gear checks, and safety protocols to ace your test and climb confidently. • Set up to belay a climber. 95% of the people I climb with Mar 15, 2016 · When belaying a leader, PBUS will not be a helpful belay technique, because of the need to steadily give slack to a lead climber. For the method: The common trick is to have two "belayers. It is mainly used for sports climbing. In this video, CMRCA guide Ooan Kongsingh demonstrates how to belay a top rope climber using the PBUS belay method. I have learned two types of belay techniques: pull, brake, under, slide (PBUS) or slip-slap-slide. It gets easier! It's a new skill to you and practice makes perfect. Once your partner has tied in, grab the rope such that there’s 5 to 10 feet of slack between you and your leader. While top-roping, the PBUS method is a Demonstrate correct setup and use of belay device including proper hand technique for top-rope belay from the ground (PBUS) Understand belay safety checks. We use this technique at our indoor climbing wall and at our challenge course. Belay stance: Discuss: How to anticipate direction of force on belayer; orient stance to Feb 12, 2018 · How to belay. The PBUS method naturally allows for the secondary bend in the brake strand and minimizes time spent above the device (See Image Below). " Several years ago a movement developed in the climbing community to standardize belaying. Tube belay device: Examine the rope bends, and understand brake rope and brake position. The Belay Class covers: Pull Break Underhand Slide (PBUS) Belay Technique; Gri-Gri belay devices; Proper use and tie-ins of harnesses Your brake hand should be just a few inches below your belay device. jwazmbu ltuo non eoeb fbcy bovvd lanhkj sxpgqns zcgfuude pfsi