Best dmm offset nuts The cable kinks easily because it is fixed in the head, which combined with the offset design keeps the nut from rotating freely when yanked upward. Feb 7, 2021 · Looking to round out my rack with some small brass nuts. I have a set of DMM offsets and I am thinking the brass offset micros would be the most versitile as the offsets can be places well enough where a non-offset can be places but has the added benefit of also being places in offset situations. If it helps I carry a set of DMM Wallnuts (similar to you bd stoppers) and a set of DMM alloy offsets and plan to add a set of peanuts to this. DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3 The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts are made with a carefully considered head geometry so that they fit securely into placements where cams or regular nuts would be unstable, flared cracks and peg scars are good examples. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. Features Versatile crack protection Offset nuts are designed to fit in a wider variety of crack placements than traditional chocks or small cams. With so many products on the market, it’s hard to know The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. Use in conjunction with DMM's Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection! 2022 CLOSEOUT Specs. While we don't think the Black Diamond Offset Micros are great for everyday traditional routes, they are perfect for difficult or thinly protected free climbs, and pretty much mandatory on any The best advice we have is to buy the set, 7-11, see if this is a problem for you and then consider swapping out the 7 for a similarly sized micro offset in a softer alloy from DMM or BD. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally May 9, 2024 · The DMM Alloy Offsets are a real go-to for those venturing into the climbing world. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. Have basically narrowed things down to either the DMM HB Offsets or the DMM IMPs. Wallnuts have a larger curve than most, making them among the best we reviewed at fitting into parallel cracks. Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. micro nuts, offset nuts, brass nuts, cams and more. I mean most lines of cams (Friends, Dragons, Camalots) have the same color scheme these days. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Hier findest Du die DMM OFFSET NUTS als Set mit 5 Größen. They feature holes on the larger faces of the alloy head and they fit great in flared cracks. DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3 *(Nut Technical Specifications can be found on the product pages)* **Alloy Offset Sets** - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. After sinking all that money into a set of climbing nuts, you’ll definitely want to be able to remove them! May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. Simon Marsh and Chris Rowlands of DMM I think you couldn't go wrong buying a set of DMM alloy offsets and a set of DMM Peenuts. Have DMM HBs 7-11. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Or is the sizing different for whatever reason? Posted by u/Infinite_Toilet - 2 votes and 18 comments Dec 13, 2009 · Superlight Rocks are among the lightest nuts on the market and they have color-coded heads that match all other Wild Country and DMM units. Irregular is better. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. ALLOY OFFSETS lock in where active camming protection may leave a pair of cams tipped out or waving in the breeze. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts are made with a carefully considered head geometry so that they fit securely into placements where cams or regular nuts would be unstable, flared cracks and peg scars are good examples. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. A couple thoughts on the choice: I have and *love* the DMM alloy offsets. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. While many people might find Rocks' larger sizes useful, most will let them sit at home more often than not. If I can find some way to do this, and hopefully if DMM can stop the slippage in future batches, then my opinion will go back to Offsets being amongst the best nuts around but not, sadly, until then. Worth the wait as these are such a well thought out addition. Best Application Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. Jan 7, 2019 · For that, a model like the aluminum headed (but still offset and small-sized) DMM Peenuts is best, especially when coupled with the DMM Alloy Offsets. For hard-to-protect aid routes or difficult free climbs. Made with unique, offset shapes, they definitely stand out among other conventional designs. And those nuts are superlight. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. Small but mighty. Basically, a DMM Offset Nut is an adjustable wedge-shaped nut that is designed to be […] DMM Offsets Set 7 - 11 - Klemmkeile mit einzigartiger Form und vielseitigen Klemmeigenschaften Nov 17, 2011 · Founded in 1981 as Moor house Engineering in Bethesda, soon to become DMM and move to more suitable premises in Llanberis in 1986, the company celebrates 30 years of manufacturing this year in 2011. Coloured coding anodizing coating that matches the DMM wallnut range to make them easy to pick out when you are gripped on a pitch. Oct 19, 2021 · OFFSET NUTS. Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. Hoping that someone can help make my mind up. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow I got my set of DMM Wallnuts, DMM Offset Nuts and DMM Torque Nuts in spring 2013, and had them out on several outings to the local crag and to Havukallio. Light yet robust and the raw ally faces are defo confidence inspiring… I use them a lot in rattly nut placements or for the 1st piece off the ground to prevent/reduce the ‘un zipping’ effect. May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. FROM Simon Marsh at DMM 24th June 2008. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. In a world where there are endless choices and overwhelming amounts of information, it can be difficult to know which dmm offset nuts is the best for you. STOP PRESS: And DMM have delivered. In 1981 the company employed just 4 people and now thirty years later we are an important employer in this area with just over 150 men and women on There are various types of nuts available by many brands in all sorts of colours, shapes and sizes. DMM Offset Nuts DMM Wallnuts WC Helium 10cm Draws x6 Mammut UL dyneema slings, 60cm, x6, w/ wiregate carabiners NAH BRO. I carried them along a couple of times to mixed climbs, but sticked to ice. For going smaller, should I get peenuts or HB brassies? For sizing I'm assuming the brassies line up pretty nicely with largest being 6 and smallest alloy being 7. Apr 13, 2025 · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. Dislikes. Nut Tools. All my nuts are DMM (walnuts+offsets) but I can't say I have noticed a difference when leading on my partners set of BD nuts. Black Diamond C4 cams, used from Mountain Project, 0. DMM offsets are seriously rad. 14 Tage Rückgaberecht versandfrei* ab € 100,- Kaufberatung Fachhändler aus Österreich DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts: To boldly go where no other nut will fit, these work in flaring cracks and seams and assorted challenging placements. My rack stands alone as a majority the time my partner doesn't have a rack or doesn't have small enough gear like micro nuts. Moved Permanently. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Don't forget about our price match guarantee! The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Enhance your gear with DMM Brass Offsets to handle every trad climbing adventure. Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts 1-10 Related Searches. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? Anything smaller than the gold offset can be covered by the 1-4 wallnuts, as a general rule. These bad boys are crafted for climbers who know the challenges of unpredictable terrains and are on the lookout for a solid kit that won't let them down. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. MICRO NUTS Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. Some find them hard to clean, but I don't really. In situations were you have a slightly flaring crack, you can just place a nut lengthwise. Are you looking for the top best dmm offset nuts 2024? We’ll show you helpful reviews and comparisons, so it’s easy to choose. *(Nut Technical Specifications can be found on the product pages)* **Alloy Offset Sets** - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. 9/10 it will make absolutely no difference. Thanks to the asymmetrically tapered heads, these micro pieces of pro slot into flared cracks and pin scars. DMM Wallnuts are also known to be extremely durable, a result of hot forging the heads of the smaller size nuts. Buy now at Bananafingers and enjoy free shipping on purchases over £60. Shop for climbing nuts from leading brands including DMM, Metolius and Wild Country from our collection below Mar 8, 2017 · Best options: DMM Offset Alloy Nuts: 5 for $70. A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. For increasing our placement options, we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts to our rack. Dec 13, 2009 · This same groove does make them harder to clean than other models only the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut was harder. 3 Items Sort By Most Popular Product Name Price Newest first Set Descending Direction The Alloy Offset is a set of climbing nuts by DMM. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Nov 23, 2021 · The offsets seem to be the best bang for the buck when balancing faff factor, ease of use, and cost. Available individually or as a set of 5. Lightweight aluminum design keeps weight down, and color coded heads make it easy to grab the right size when you're on the sharp end. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr *(Nut Technical Specifications can be found on the product pages)* **Alloy Offset Sets** - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. In reality buy whichever you like. I usually carry a combination of the two but often don't carry the largest 1 or 2 alloy offsets Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. Wild Country Superlight Offset Nuts: 6 for $70. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. DMM Alloy Offsets for trad climbing Asymmetrical offset nuts for rock protection Durable alloy offset stoppers for climbers Lightweight offset nuts for thin cracks Color-coded DMM Alloy Offsets for easy use Grooved face design for secure placements Strong 12kN strength DMM offset nuts Ideal offset protection for various terrains Unique tapered design for challenging routes As a massive fan of offset nuts and cams I’ve hoped that DMM would produce their own. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. 4-4 random rigid stem cams from Facebook old nuts sport draws nylon runners, 60cm, with any carabiners Protection - Nuts - DMM Alloy Offsets. But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. Ideal for protecting irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot, The DMM Offset Nuts boast a robust 12kN strength rating and are colour coded for ease of selection. We have great value for money sets for entry level beginners and a high end, performance range for where every gram counts. Apr 23, 2020 · I love my offset nuts, rarely rack the regular ones. Rocks aren't made in as small sizes as other nut sets, but Wild Country does offer Mini Rocks, excellent small aluminum nuts. They are the same nuts created by legendary climber Hugh Banner back in the '60s, with a renovated design that renders them much lighter while still preserving their strength. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Review DMM Offset Nut Review. In situations that are too flaring for that, just look for another spot or keep going. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them during the Mar 5, 2023 · Introduction to DMM Offset Nuts DMM Offset Nuts are some of the most popular and versatile pieces of climbing hardware on the market. The softer heads bite into rock yet resist pulling through, while the thicker wires boost overall strength for confidence-inducing placements. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM DMM passive protection and active protection for trad climbing, and ice and winter protection. The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Due to their complex offset shape the DMM Alloy Offsets offer placement opportunities when nothing else will fit, making them a vital part of your rack. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars; Can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect Additionally they will match the DMM offsets which everyone also swears by (BD now makes offset nuts, never tried em tho). They provide an easy way to rig anchors, secure rappels and create emergency anchors in a pinch. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. These nuts will complement your other nuts and are intuitive and easy to place - in all types of rock. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. I think it should be their next thing to do. The only route I can remember being happy to have offset nuts at the gunks was Fly Again for the section right off the ledge. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. The document has moved here. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. I know the DMM nut color coding by heart now, but honestly I prefer the BD way of using the same color coding on both their cams and nuts. . Jan 20, 2010 · Rocks fit an average range of crack types but are not as versatile as DMM Offset Nut. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite also. dwkwb ttwwpym ilj wfgdyuxo gfdpi aywkm jjhr jnoxir obri qgsvqf outq bopfz nfl gsmxosi xvh