Climbing sling vs runner weight reddit So, the benefit of a rabbit runner is more flexibility. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. I'm a beginner sport climber though, so weight is not really an issue for me at this stage. Pick just the extension you need and no more. 5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing to build an anchor. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. Thanks to its high-strength band material and contact sewing technique, the handling is super smooth despite the seam area. On my harness while climbing most multipitch routes I have a belay/rap device, an extra sling with a locker, and a couple extra biners. 20kg feels impossible to lift even if you're producing 19. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. There I found a quad easier and faster to setup than getting the right length with draws. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is far and away the most economical choice you can make when it comes to buying a sewn sling. Sep 14, 2006 · I used tied runners for a long time until I found the super-light weight 8mm Mammut sewn slings. How much equipment are you planning to have along with that lunch and sweater? Slings at first seem great but have noticed that over an extended period of time or with heavy equipment it does become quite cumbersome. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Yes, you could achieve the same with weights, but I find that say for weight x, up to that weight, it feels like it won't move off the ground, and so it is far harder to determine when you're ready. Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. Jun 15, 2020 · Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. 10, but the point is that you're simply completely wrong on this one. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. The minis are too small for anything, other than zipper locksbut as zipper locks, the minis/lockable minis are great. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Even on my quickdraws and on my cams (DMM Drangons): less weight, lower bulk. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. If price is the issue, just buy the cheapest certified harness available, that's like $35. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. There are 2 types of webbings — tubular webbing and flat webbing. For Multi-pitch. Using a double length runner girth hitched to your tie-in, knotted as shown and clipped to your belay loop allows you to unclip one end from your belay loop and tether yourself to the anc This. No real reason, just the nylon slings were really cheap & the weight and bulkiness doesn't bother me (except if you use them with those small ultra-light 'biners but I hate those things Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). Every single one had quickdraws as part of their rack. Sling Length May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. Typically still over 10kn. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. Cheers. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. I don't think it's a good idea - I imagine catching a lead fall could injure the belayer since the sling is really too thin to spread the load. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. If you can find second hand I highly recommend. Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. i use dyneema for everything. Finally, with everything weight tested and zero chance of you falling (you've already knotted the ends of the rope, of course), you take the locker at the end of the sling and attach it to your belay loop. It may adjust when being weighted though. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. When my dyneema draws became rather fuzzy from use my partners started complaining about them & I replaced them with nylon. Think I'm the only one that's gone back to nylon. Apr 11, 2023 · A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. How are slings constructed? Slings can be constructed in two ways: They can either be sewn or seamless. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. Jan 13, 2022 · Ice-Screw Belay: A very similar rigging works with ice screws as well, but uses a double-length (120 cm) runner instead. Posted by u/hnbike - 2 votes and 10 comments Yea seems like they aren’t making them anymore. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. If the 1st blows your gonna take a bit of a fall onto the second. sling of the purple c3 (only bd cam i own) See full list on outdoorgearlab. You will typically use a 2. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. A full backpack provides more of a balance weight distribution. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. The discussion over nylon vs. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). if it is, you did something else very wrong. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. On here sits all the extra stuff. When rehabbing I put the sling through/around weights Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 11mm wide, 120cm long version, which allowed us to easily equalize two anchor pieces with a figure-eight knot. As explained @ 1:30-1:35 it's for redundancy. Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. Our Mammut Contact Sling 8. Weight test both your atc and auto-block, and as you do this the locker at the end of the sling should go slack. The most important items IMHO are shoes with good grip on slick granite and good gloves that can grip the cables (I think I chose a pair of weight lifting gloves). only exceptions: two kevlar/aramid slings for tunnels. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. Weight savings or some bullshit, I dunno. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming . Tubular webbings can be sewn or tied to form a runner or sling. If weight is the issue, look for specialized alpine harnesses like the one linked before. Gloves only for aid or FA. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Flat webbings are what you typically see on your backpack straps. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. On the back loops I keep 6-8 alpine draws (single length) and then 2-3 double lengths over my shoulder with a biner clipped on them. Follower has a nut tool, maybe a water bottle. May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. The extra length is needed to ensure the ice screws are situated at least 30 cm apart, so they won’t both fail in case of an ice fracture. 0. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". I augment my kit with Nitize plastic s-biner #4 (25lbs) and #2. Just belay from the ground. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. You only use tubular webbing for climbing. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. One belay device and an extra locker is plenty. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. The stiffness is great to shove it through the tunnel. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. Dyneema. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Personally, I think the whole static vs. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. You usually need no more than 1 or 2. The weight of multiple climbing-quality biner can add up quickly. 5kg of force. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). the knot might snag. And if you are dealing with 2 nonlocking QDs when cleaning, clip PAS to 1 bolt. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. It has virtually the exact same shape, feel, weight, and other characteristics as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner, except that it inexplicably costs about $1. A prusik sling for a chalkbag belt is a good idea, the minitrax is redundant. You should also become more c I usually rack my nuts at the front of my front gear loops and cams running smallest to largest at the back (also front loops). I've met a lot of new climbing partners the last couple years, like a lot, and I've used a lot of their gear. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. . For peace of mind, the added weight and cost of a useful protection system may or may not be worth it to you. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. The metal s-biners are too heavy for what they do. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. ) A sling, (Typically a dynamic sling such as Beal Dynaclip or a homemade one) 3 Locking carabinners Belay/Rappel device 2 prussick's slings one "Maillon Rapide" to be lowered on a bolt in case I don't send the climb and there's nobody stronger around. The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. As long as you leave your locker clipped into the sling and either locked back on your belay loop or clipped through the loop on your sling that you use to rap it should be safe because the sling can't unravel. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. Same as before More slings Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Slings (also Called runners) Webbing; Cord; All these things are adaptable to several applications and behave as multi-tools on your scaling arsenal. I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. Dyneema slings, on the other hand, have a higher load capacity at exactly the same weight, and a smaller diameter – which makes them ideal for adventurous sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and alpine tours. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. 6 million pounds. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Even though it can be produced a variety of ways, a sling (also called a runner) is usually made by stitching a webbing section to a loop. Preventing a fall is priority #1. Probably only works for them because they don't climb anything under 5. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. Clip another QD between the bolts. These are identical to a normal sling in strength and weight. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. I just have a pre rigged sling on my rack where I just have to clip the bolts and have a bomber anchor with minimal extension. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. com Climbing Slings. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. It saves a good amount of weight compared to the bulkier tied slings and they work just as well. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Slings are better suited for men; uncomfortable to women. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. A whole new construction technique is used for seamless slings like the Magic Sling 12. It’s a reasonable solution, adds little weight, provides an imperfect but usable backup should he drop his Guide, and equips him for self-rescue (a Guide, two friction hitches, and a sling make for a rope ascending system in a pinch. Paired with a carabiner and a sling I can put it around my foot and pull upwards or hang from a tree and pull down on when outdoors to warm up. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. 0 is a super lightweight and compact sling optimized for maximum performance. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. Growing Slings. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. While many other slings will also work for this purpose, we are convinced that the Open Loop Sling is the ideal choice. I still bring a few tied slings for leaving on rap anchors, trees, etc so that I don't have to leave one of the $10 suckers. but it needs more replacing. Runner/ Sling. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. jcbms ysdwu xmvtn ngydl ugrkns mhrrda yehn bbt duqdh lquvg acu spgs trrq dkuy vnvi