Petzl top rope solo Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. Normally, I use and would recommend a dynamic rope to alleviate the dynamic loading of your devices (that I will discuss in 2). Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. I couldn't be happier with the result. Rappel the pitch on a single strand, placing a few pieces of directional gear if needed. I’m thinking about setting up a Petzl Rescucender as my main device with a backup. To me it was a good investment. Some people recommend having each device on a seperate strand of rope in case of a rope failure. , Petzl Micro Traxion or Camp Lift), and then climbs up while the PCDs move up the rope. Sep 17, 2020 · This video explains a nice discovery I made using both devices for top rope solo. Jul 17, 2021 · In reply to. There are many different devices on the market and ALL of them have pro's and con's. It is certainly possible to use a normal ascender such as the ascension for top rope solo. It's a very effective way to work the moves on your project for as long as you want without having to drag a belayer along. Moved Permanently. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. com Mar 6, 2025 · Summary This is a comprehensive how-to guide that I created to organize the widely dispersed information on this topic. Petzl USA. petzl suggest combination of Micro Traxion and Microcender. Per the photo, I use a Petzl Croll attached to a couple slings / chest harness (with bungee holding it as high as possible above the belay loop) as my primary ascender. I would tie a knot once i was up off the deck, and then again every 20’or so. In a lead-belay scenario, he imagines the Neox will also be a better option for left-handed climbers, who can adopt traditional ATC rope-feeding tactics. I collaborated with climbers and conducted my own hands-on research in order to understand best practices and address all known risks associated with these devices. Not only can you use it for a wide variety of applications, but it performs reasonably well in all of them. What is rope soloing? Free soloing is the truest expression of a climber’s freedom, cruising up the rock, alone and unnumbered by safety gadgets. Connect both devices onto the rope and into your belay loop as shown above. But even the best free solo climber, pushing their limit, may find a section of the climb where success is uncertain - where a fall would mean death. they can use a top-rope solo I just had my first solo top rope send, using a basic rapell setup with a normal brake and prusik, on my dynamic rope. Both feed pretty well. A few things I have learned. So clipping it up to a chest harness is recommended, but this starts to limit movement. 2-10. From what I can tell, it seems to be the perfect tool for it - toothless, lightweight, gives a little on falls to absorb the impact. Petzl rates it for use with and without a screamer on the device and they also suggest screamers at the anchor end of the rope. It pops up in many of Petzl's tech tips. 9 and it was anchored off at the middle. May 14, 2008 · FWIW, if I were using an ASAP to TR solo, I think I'd be more likely to put a shock absorber at the top of the rope (ie: rigging rope brings anchors back to a single point, Absorbica or whatever attached there, top rope attached to that) and clip the ASAP straight into the belay loop on my harness. Does anyone with experienc Grigri top rope solo . carnie:. Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts. I usually will clip a backup knot or two to my belay loop somewhere along the way. Oct 10, 2020 · Probably worth searching UKC for topic, eg top rope solo, including older threads. To be really safe, push a second ascender at arms length up the rope above your head which is attatched to you by a long sling. It never slips as an ascender, it hauls comfortably, and it works well as one of your two top-rope solo devices. Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. There is lots of information about safety, device mechanics and selection of devices, how to attach them, rope systems (one rope, two ropes, pseudo leading, top rope TRS). there has been at least one incident where the guy was lucky to walk away and its something petzl warns about was doing top rope laps on a short climb using my Mini Traxion. Dual rope strands: Many gear manufacturers, including Petzl, reccomend 2 strands of rope. The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. Dec 1, 2020 · The Spoc is basically the Microtraxion with differences that aren't really worth mention. I've worked routes on TR solo that I needed to memorize a very small, precise and technical crux. Neither the grigris nor the neox will slip if already locked with a climber hanging on the load strand. Tall Oak:. Aug 25, 2022 · Toprope soloing is when the climber is not tied into the rope directly. I use a Petzl Micro Traxion. Static ropes are good too. There are lots of ways to set this up and all of them are more dangerous than climbing with a buddy. This is what most other climbers choose, too. I’d hang a light weight on the rope to feed it through. But if you're gonna be rappelling down then you have to bring your rappel device with you (reverso 4 for me). If she falls, the PCDs will catch on the rope and arrest her fall. Sheath degloving from upper device would cause lower device to fail as well. Some of us rule breaking top rope soloists might get the idea that you could clip the ASAP to your belay loop, keep slack out of the system, and be perfectly safe on a static or Sep 15, 2021 · Reality though is different. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). The document has moved here. Sep 2, 2020 · Here is my top rope solo set up. In fact, Petzl's guide specifically lists the ascension as one of the devices to use in some of their examples . However, there are several new devices on the market, such as the TAZ LOV2, that might just be game Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. Jul 29, 2024 · There was minimal resistance in the Neox’s spinning wheel, but he noted, per Petzl, to maintain a brake hand on the rope to avoid rope slippage. I would use a burly rope to top rope solo. Nov 7, 2018 · Bei Bedarf nutze ich auch beim Seil zwei Stränge und ziehe zusätzlich noch eine weitere Seilklemme mit hinterher (hier ein Rope Man 2). There's a good group for TRS on Facebook with pages of information and all combinations of devices all discussed. The Micro Traxion is not really meant to be falling onto. I did this with a Basic at my chest and trailing a Cinch on a short sling. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. I'm building my top rope solo setup. I have adopted the two-devices-on-one-rope method as outlined by Petzl. I use two 11mm lines with a shunt on one, a micro trax as backup, backup knots when I can, at least one rebelay near the top so the rope doesn't run over any horizontal ground and a probably unnecessary amount of rope protectors. It can be used for top belay, rescue, hauling, or as a device in TRS, Petzl submitted their Traxion for EN 567 testing, which Jul 26, 2002 · If you use a Petzl Croll with a chest harness and keep the rope tight then if you fall off you would only be taking up the rope stretch - ie similar forces to prussiking up a rope using 2 ascenders. The most popular device for top rope soloing is probably the Petzl Micro Traxion (full confession: It’s my chosen device, too). Most of the setups I've seen have some kind of backup device in place, sometimes even on a second rope. I'd like to get a static rope, but at the moment my rope budget is going towards halves Solo toprope 2 I didn't like how the carabiner swings under the ascender, and I especially don't like that it hits the black plastic handle that opens the ascender at the same time as it is basically pulling the rope away from of the groove that it sits in. Hey r/climbing, I'm trying to practice a route that I want to free solo (nothing crazy but long) and I'm considering buying a grigri so that I Apr 16, 2020 · 1. This is how I have top roped solo for many years using the Petzl Shunt. Feb 12, 2020 · Andre Chiquito wrote: I'm considering top rope soloing using a only micro traxion on a static fixed line. I know it is not the thing any more, but it was a recommended use at the time. Entsprechend müsst ihr entweder eine Route wählen, bei der ihr zu Fuss den Stand (Umlenker) erreicht oder in der euch eine Person (Familienmitglied, Drittperson im Klettergarten) beim ersten Go im Vorstieg zum Einrichten einmal sichert. Introduction to Top Rope Soloing “The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!” ~ Alex Lowe. Andy Kirkpatrick's style is good and the book gives lots of first hand information on how to climb as safe as possible alone in a top rope setting. Micro traxions are adequate but are not designed to be dynamically Moved Permanently. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. May 21, 2024 · The Petzl Micro Traxion is at the top of our list as a true Jack-of-all-trades. I must say that it was a bit scary at first. May 2, 2018 · Fix your 9. Jun 23, 2020 · I use a grigri for solo lead, but I have been getting set up as top rope solo several times per week for a long time using Camp lift short looped to main harness with a chest harness to keep it high, with a ropeman2 dragging on a screamer set to a separate line. Most of them are wrong and dangerous. I currently have a Petzl Minitraxion, and am thinking of getting the Wild Country Ropeman2 as the back up, since it's less than half the cost and functions similarly. 4mm rope off a solid top anchor. The rope was a used 9. The Grigri is a more versatile device. Feb 10, 2011 · Bottom line: Don’t rope solo. Try it and let me know if it works for you!Also to get a complete course on Moved Permanently. Nov 15, 2013 · There is a higher impact close to the anchor as in any fixed line top rope and some claimed it fell apart with repeated falls while others said it was fine. So with a hair tie you can keep the Micro Traxion up but still have freedom of movement from the chest harness. Instead, she sets up a fixed line from a solid anchor above the route, attaches herself to the rope with two PCDs (e. Petzl have several setups described on their website, May 11, 2015 · I used this forum to research a TR solo system, so providing feedback on the system I put together. Neither the grigris nor the neox work without a hand on the brake, from above (though the grigri+ in top rope mode does, actually,) Jul 14, 2022 · The following is part one of another chunk on my On the Line book, covering the tricky topic of top rope soloing (TRS). Self-belay: solo climbing with one or two fixed ropes Ascending a rope with GRIGRI, GRIGRI + and NEOX Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or NEOX to the harness What are two different non-toothed devices (that do not require managing slack) that can be used to top rope solo. This will make it easier to grab the cam and open it for moving the device up or down the rope manually without having to take it off the rope. I’d rather be safe then sorry. The following parts do not cover specific devices, but rather the qualities of different types of devices, including eccentric, rocker, lever, wedge, as well as Assisted Breaking Devices (ABD), Belay Assist, and non-mechanical. I think the blanket advice to not use it for TR soloing is a bit harsh. Petzl is very clear that it does not work in overhangs, but when on top rope it is very easy to avoid being surprised by an overhang :-) I will continue to use the shunt for TR soloing cleaning routes. Never used a second rope, just make sure your top belay is bombproof and your rope is weighted with some gear. What is a Traxion officially? Petzl's marketing states it's a "progress capture pulley", period. 2. Using a static rope is most convenient, but a dynamic will work as well. Bluewater, Edelweiss, Mammut, etc. May 14, 2022 · My Top Rope Solo System. g. Solid anchor on two trees, simple climb, thus allowing me to just drag in the slack along the way, in essence reversing the rapell down. Sep 21, 2021 · Well, the critical thinker might reason that the screamer is there because the device is commonly used untended on a 3' long tether in combination with a static rope. Bei der unteren Steigklemme ist es wichtig, dass diese auch bei Belastung von oben blockiert. Take the ubiquitous Micro Traxion as an example. I have used this setup (and fallen on it) several times, and I found it to feed very smoothly. Aug 21, 2020 · You need this material for self-belaying when solo climbing in the top rope. . So far I've just used my regular fat dynamic rope, being careful of padding edges. Sep 19, 2022 · What is the best self-belay device for top rope solo climbing? This is a question without a cut-and-dried answer. The Roll'n'lock doesn't have teeth, which some people like because it doesn't tear the rope sheath as easily, but that really only happens if you screw up anyway, and it's anyone's guess what the ridges on the Roll'n'lock are doing to the core of your rope. The best climbing store online I used to top rope solo with a Petzl Shunt. If you are looking for a device specifically for TR solo, I would recommend the Camp Lift. ) Mar 6, 2019 · 6) It appears that the end of the cam extends out away from the rope and device a bit more than on the Micro Trax. There are many ways to set up a top rope solo system. WARNING! Don’t fo Each device will provide a different balance between auto-feeding and grabbiness. Dec 8, 2012 · I recently picked up a Petzl Microtraxion to use for hauling light loads, and have also used it several times for top rope soloing [I walked to the top of a crag, fixed a line off the anchor, walked back down, then climbing the route from the bottom with the fixed line running through the Microtraxion to capture my progress]. I’ve heard that toothed devices such as a micro traxion can damage the sheath on a rope or even cut a rope. After some consideration I went for a grigri with chest harness (to keep it oriented right) as a main device and a Petzl ASAP as backup for the lead solos. the Top Rope Online Course really gave me systematic insights in what is good and what is less good, and it also shows lots of different ways of looking at things. Dec 20, 2017 · Hi all - Reaching out to the community for comments on experience. Dec 6, 2023 · The book is super. Lots of people keen to invent all sorts of solutions but to keep it simple, start with devices recommended by the manufacturer for the target application, e. I had the Mini Traxion on a Petzl OK oval carabiner. This is my setup for a Top-Rope Solo. An ascender: Petzl Ascension; A rope clamp: Petzl Rescuer; 2 carabiners with 3-way opening: Petzl OK Triact-Lock carabiner; 1 locking ring (Maillon Rapide): Petzl Go; Quickdraw 17 cm: Petzl Axess Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. Das Petzl Shunt ist hier NICHT als Backup geeignet! Fazit Feb 3, 2022 · 1 progress capture device, Petzl Microtraxion or Edelrid Spoc; 2 ascenders; 2 daisy chains; 1 progress capture device; 1-foot loop for jugging; Top-Rope Soloing. Just go with a reputable manufacturer. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. I've head pointed on TR solo to figure out small, run out gear- mentally difficult. Feb 3, 2015 · I regularly used a Petzl basic ascender with a backup prussik loop and sling to let you unweight in case of having to descend. Aug 21, 2020 · Rope Solo im Toprope. I've used the mircotrax with the grigri but my usual setup for solo is the mirco with the petzl ascension ascender. In unserem Beitrag zeigen wir dir vorerst nur die Technik, wie ihr euch beim Toprope-Klettern selbst sichern könnt. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: See full list on climbing. What remains to be seen (at least for my uses): 1) How smoothly will it feed? Apr 8, 2017 · In the quest to obtain the gear required to solo top rope, I ran across almost everyone in old forum posts using the Petzl Microcender as either the primary or backup device. Nov 19, 2024 · In reply to. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. Compact, versatile rope clamp Sport Top and Side Protection The BASIC is a compact ascender that fits well in the hand for rope ascents. As long as there is no traversing it worked well. Apr 8, 2017 · In the quest to obtain the gear required to solo top rope, I ran across almost everyone in old forum posts using the Petzl Microcender as either the primary or backup device. I did quite some top rope solo before but after this course i am changing my devices and the whole setup. We prefer to use the grabbiest possible device that we can still coax into auto-feeding because they will engage most reliably in a fall while allowing us to climb relatively unencumbered. For top rope solo I used a Micro Traxion and a Kong Duck on separate lines (yes I fixated both strands it the top from seperate bolts). A regular grigri slips under the weight of the rope when belaying someone from above. I used two strands of rope by knotting the rope at the anchor. Jun 9, 2015 · I've worked several projects that were "hard" for me on solo top rope. Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. Dec 1, 2013 · 2. uisy bzfxe htc dvrfkoj wzg efa jckktly baysxib xdolj jnoi cup ebvt ogq vyiyj yyzpt