Rock climbing strength reddit.

Rock climbing strength reddit For climbing, I do my compound lifts at 5x5 and any accessories 3x15. So yes, rock climbing is good. Specificity in training is always good, and it does seem obvious that in this general case core endurance would help. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Yes this isn't every climb and yes strength is a component of climbing, but for most normal people, at the lower grades technique is more important than strength. e. What makes the difference though, is that endurance is a function of strength, and not the other way around. , when people focus on weight loss at the expense of eating to adequately fuel and recover), I think this enters into some people’s thinking when deciding which energy systems to train. You can train your We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. While the importance of this is often vastly overstated (i. They specifically requested workouts they can do at home to supplement what climbing they can fit in. Also keep in mind that climbing has a huge carry-over to calisthenics, most above average climbers can nearly perform any calisthenics exercises like OAC, straddle FL, back lever, etc. May 8, 2023 · Remember, your chosen exercises don’t have to look like rock climbing. That big ass helps in lifting, but hurts in climbing. Any way you slice it, you need to have a plan. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Thus, either way if you did rock climbing (e. via link-ups, highballs, etc. Top professional climbers might benefit from cycling it off before lead climbing season to shed a tiny bit of bodyweight for long endurance climbs, but I can't imagine why someone would want to train without creatine, given the choice. So while climbing isn’t the most efficient way of neither losing fat or gaining muscle, it is, to some, a more achievable way of staying fit/healthy. Reddit's rock climbing training community. There are climbing subreddits that would be way more helpful than here. So much of my technique up to that point had been about avoiding cruxy brutish moves using flexibility and long awkward betas that there was this whole other language of climbing that I had no idea how to tackle after gaining muscle. If you look at climbing through an athletic lens - the only thing that really matters is topping out the problem/route/whatever. Other than that - learn to climb Climbing is more fun that lifting weight or going for a run for many people. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Typically, 2x a week strength training is good enough for climbing, as most of your energy should still be going toward climbing. 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave Macleod ClimbingTechniques - Website with lots of rock climbing basics and info Terminology Reddit's rock climbing training community. I have some rock rings and I switch up anything I can with them. If you can do BOTH and also make sure you are recovering well, then rock on. In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. Accompanied by Youtube videos to support the exercises. You don't lack grip strength if you can do weighted anything/one arm deadhangs, and traditional grip strength is pretty unimportant for climbing anyway. sport specific skills), you should still have to do strength and conditioning to make good progress with your ability to perform at rock climbing AND get good strength and muscle definition. There actually aren't any muscles in your fingers, they're all in your palm or arm. The way I look at it, strength is a general adaptation that can be applied specifically to any sport. The average person probably never goes beyond 10% of their potential grip strength. This is far more useful than quietly stepping on holds bigger than the size of texas when it comes to training for time on rock IMO. If these exercises are taking away from the quality of your climbing sessions then they may be holding you back. Thanks for the support though! The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Ill also connect my rock rings to a cable machine and do finger curls with those. Another thing that comes into play is the fact that climbing is a strength-to-weight ratio sport. This may be more of an argument in favor of body composition and antagonist work for injury prevention rather than increasing climbing strength at the upper echelon of performance; i. the top 1% of climbers will never want to do any exercise that doesn't directly improve their climbing. . I'm currently in this boat. Strength training is a really useful tool for deliberate improvement, and it includes a lot more than just pullups, bench press and deadlifts. Generally, do lifting after (as climbing is the skill training before workouts) and you can modify it depending on how much fatigue was from your sessions. ) a lot to help them with their climbing, not because they climb a lot. There's even less pushing, but not so much pulling either. These are relatively small, light muscles. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. There’s a lot of technique in sloper climbing, but those same positions are often murder on your shoulders, so it helps to have good movement/mobility and strength in very wide positions. And crimps with good thumb catches Check in with your ability to properly recover from those climbing sessions and maybe add push-day, because climbing is basically just pulling strength. Absolutely. Here's my question: If Strength = neural adaptations * muscle cross section, should this apply to finger strength as well? Could a person overcome a poor fingerstrength-to-weight ratio by hypertrophy training forearms, or is it really the most optimal to continue strength training fingers and keeping bodyweight on the downside? The most similar thing in climbing would be one/two-move wonder boulders, or very physically cruxy boulders. If you want to train strength in both areas, be ready to feel some level of fatigue either in your climbing or in your lifting or both and make sure to unload after 4-6 weeks of this. Sport climbers who don't boulder also tend not to be as good at explosive climbing as boulderers, for complementary reasons. Footwork (climbing on rock helps the most with this for me) Hip flexibility/High feet/Balance (Yoga helped me with this) Finger/forearm strength (hangboarding and climbing consistently 3-4 times a week with one day rest in between for proper recovery) Finger strength, technique and probably even core strength is more important than pulling strength. g. If your core is stronger overall then you will by default have greater core endurance on the same climbs. So the strength requirement often gets lower the better your technique is. However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. Even for a body builder - unless grip strength is something they specifically train - they probably don't go above 50%. 9 months ago I could do a one arm pull-up and hanging on a 25 mm edge was difficult despite exclusively trying to focus on easy crimp climbs for six months while being miserable, and Reddit Most grip trainers are semi useless. for example instead of bar-rows, I tie my rock rings to a kettlebell and do rows with those. My lifts are similar, I single leg Bulgarian squat, OHP, weighed pull-ups, horizontal row, dips, and variety of rotator cuff lifts done at a low weight (I tore my shoulder a few years ago). Pullups don't translate to climbing strength all that much, but they're great for just general strength. Within the framework of ways that strength is specific, there are eight ways in which strength can produce targeted effects, as follows: (1) contraction mode (eccentric or concentric), (2) velocity, (3) joint angle of peak contraction or range of motion, (4) the number of reps, or the point on the strength-endurance continuum, (5) the degree of I actually think body strength (core) is the best to train in the beginning. Honestly there are a lot of ways to get better at climbing, the single most important thing is, to avoid injury. Absolutely feel more in love with climbing then but now, 8 years later, I still wish I would have dedicated way more time to outside climbing. Of course climbing is the best way to get better at climbing, but more climbing is not always an option. It's insane because climbing is one of the few exercises that target forearm strength. Dedicated climbers tend to get strong at pulling exercises because they train pulling strength (by campusing etc. but sport climbs can take between 5 minutes and (if you're a slow climber like me) 20+ minutes. So if you are good at something, get even better at it and if you are bad at something still get better at it. For example, the movement pattern involved in horizontal pulling (dumbbell rows, seated rows, inverted rows) doesn’t resemble that of vertical pulling (pull-ups, lat pull-downs, etc. Climbing strength is so specific it's very hard to train for outside of a climbing wall. Depends on your goals. 2 more cents from someone else who transitioned from weak and technique to strong. However vertical climbing is more lower body then people think. And yes we are scared of falling. You'll feel a lot of pump in your forearms and calves. For any moves where hand strength is the limiting factor, excess muscle in any other body part is detrimental. I almost exclusively boulder (Altho I’m slowly working on my sport climbing), and I shape my strength training around my climbing. That doesn't mean you CAN climb that hard; a better metric (but still limited by being a strength/power measure rather than a climbing measure) is probably what your 3-5 rep The home of Climbing on reddit. However, many climbers I know found climbing as their If you are replacing climbing with strength training, and your goal is to improve climbing, then that is not so good. Pay arno to come to your gym and make you take lead falls Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing admittedly i skimmed a while ago so summary might not be great was long & repetitive book. Often climbers will have strong abs, but a weak core, because they're missing some other piece, like scapular retraction/stability or glutes/hamstring. Rock climbing fitness is 100% functional but 90% specific to rock climbing. I truly want to be bodyweight strengthed Strength is strength, whether its built with bodyweight or barbell. Ehhhh-- I disagree. 75 years—my climbing journey has been defined by a large gap between body/pulling strength and finger strength. The key strength component is largely static, pullups will definitely help as will core training but it doesn't translate fantastically. Assuming your primary goal is to improve climbing, I’d try schedule climbing days after rest days or easy cardio sessions. My intent was to add to the discussion rather than provide an all encompassing solution. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. A lot depends on morphology and a lot of rock pinches are more like pressure scums. Also if you add more strength training you should make sure you are eating more to adequately recover. Warm up your In real rock climbing, you aren't putting as mush weight on your grip muscles as you are when you are hanging there on the hangboard. As you get more conditioned it will be easier to do both climbing and strength training. Hey all, I've been bouldering for 3 months and have come to the very newbie-level conclusion that my hand and finger strength are hugely limiting factors for me, as I have noticed a huge difference in the boulder problems at my gym when going from V3/4 to V4/5. I really enjoy strength training too, which is why like yourself, I've come to climbing with an above average pull strength for people who climb at my grade. do strength training. Things related to climbing are specific; general strength/grip strength won't help you given your preexisting strength. You should probably start closer to 10, so you can practice technique more at the start, and then slowly lower to around 3 reps when you want to peak for strength so after the first month, you can lower the target reps by 1 for each set, just as a starting guideline, you probably wont gain that much muscle, it's hard to do, especially if its supplemental things you do on the side between/after I started climbing outside within the first few months and luckily went to Hueco for one of my first experiences on real rock. Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle - A book of exercises to improve climbing movement. I agree most of them seem harder than climbing V10 for example, but if you strip away all of the skill of climbing V10 then sure some calisthenic athletes wouldn't struggle too much. No point in only focusing in weaknessess. I've read from several sources that specifically training to improve your grip strength isn't as efficient as training by climbing, so my advice would be to focus on routes that have a prolific amount of small crimps and other holds you struggle with. Of course you can add in accessory work for sport specific strength (in this case pull ups etc. Lastly, the gripping actions rock climbing uses are almost never used in other sports so you'll end up with capacity you can never use. Hey everyone, been climbing for about 1. There are many other elements and my short list is just that: a few tips to focus on that are a key part of my internal monologue and/or flow-state behavior when I'm climbing my best. It involves a weighted ball (maybe the size of a baseball or softball) as the load. Many people have therabands in their climbing bag to do some warm-up exercises prior to climbing as well as specifically for training. If you want to help your body out, eat well, get enough rest, stretch after climbing, do antagonist training, and eat/drink something that has sugars and protein in it after climbing to aid recovery. But they can also be great for maintaining a balanced physique and preventing injury. Also there’s an endurance style walk at my climbing gym, you probably have the same, when the moves are numbered, 1-40, I took inspiration from somebody I saw there who did the route two, three or four times without coming off the wall, great way to increase finger strength and conditioning which I would recommend Alternatively you could try adding one strength exercise to your program every two weeks to slowly ease into it. Yes, technique and mental fortitude are hugely important, but IMO unlike strength, they actually are best trained by "just climbing", or logging a ton of mileage, getting a ton of time on rock, building your movement library, falling a lot, etc. If you start to do some overhang you'll feel a lot in your back and arms. - If you can do a few (1-3 sets) of 8-12 pushups and pullups at BW with a few minutes rest between you can do more than enough reps for Vdoubledigit boulders. I had to relearn a lot of technique. Good luck and hope it helps. Hand strength is pretty much exclusively trained by rock rings/fingerboards and actual climbing. I'm an avid rock climber (or at least I was till I moved to middle of nowhere Kansas) How much of a workout do you get rock climbing? The workout is great. Since climbing is already super intense, I’d try to focus on the 3-8 rep range for heavy compounds (squat, bench, weighted pull up, etc) followed up with some lighter accessory work. Try to maintain current levels of strength and power and address injury prevention and recovery modalities. Front levers translate better - it's an isometric hold, and dragon flags are just an advanced core exercise. By doing "dead hangs" you're essentially training your grip muscles to do the climbing equivalent of a sprint. I currently weigh ~175lbs and deadlift 485 (455 with switch grip, no straps) which seems like reasonable grip strength for my weight. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Please leave any extra curricular training (ie: anything other than climbing/bouldering) for the first two years. For climbing, "core" strength essentially means a stiff torso, to connect limbs to each other. Every session is 2 hours about. Workout A (Max strength and overhang climbing): 30 min flexibility and warm up. Make your weaknessess your strength and strengths superstrengths. The gist i IIRC: use CBT to alter your mindset for success. At the risk of asking an overly basic question, I hear it repeated like a mantra that core strength is extremely important in climbing, but I’m not sure I understand why. reReddit: Top posts of June 20 Hello, beginner here about three months in, climbing v2 comfortably. For sport climbing specifically, it absolutely seems beneficial. But they don't tend to gain endurance-oriented skills (like resting technique) unless that's a big part of their climbing diet, e. Pure climbing a lot is a awesome workout and if that’s all you would care to do, great! But climbing alone won’t be enough to build overall strength and physique especially when route setters tend to favor a lot on a particular arm (ending, mantling, dynos) so I would say you should still supplement it with calisthenics. If you want something more different, I have a favorite. The reason is because getting too strong in the fingers / pulling too fast will help you cheat, preventing you from developing an efficient climbing style since you can come really far with being strong, but sloppy. ), but I think a basic barbell strength program is gonna be most beneficial thing to do in the gym (until you're actually strong). I’m addition, wanting to get better at climbing, can motivate you to e. Bouldering For Strength; Best Climbing Movies; Top Posts Reddit . About a year ago, I began indoor bouldering (rock climbing) and coming from a swimming/lifting background my grip strength is severely lagging. The Rock Warrior's Way Take falls over and over again. I'd like to bring up that this is a really fucking annoying answer, which always comes up when people ask this. I’m all on board the strength train when it comes to slopers: four and three fingers open hand, plus wrist, shoulder, chest, and upper back/lat strength. I’ve always had super strong pinch strength due to hand morphology and the only way I increased it was focusing on board climbing on shallow narrow, shallow wide, deep narrow, and deep wide pinches all separately. Shit technique for strength The idea of climbing with poor technique that Louis Parkinson advised in that video has some horrible bits. The reverse is not true though, lower intensity The square-cube law definitely explains part of the reason why bigger people have worse strength-to-weight ratios, but I don’t think anyone is realistically reaching the point where a pound of muscle gives less than a pound of strength, especially in climbing-specific muscle like the forearms. Jan 20, 2024 · It's actually generally the other way around, people use strength to make up for a lack of technique. ), but they are basically the same from a strength training standpoint, especially for Also, rock climbing depends on developing capillarity and avoiding pump, the exact opposite of most sports. hzul cbln nqui cpqu lqodxc vpuzd hpmr jzlwy daxs irhxgzi vzkupt gzi wggzw tllbsl dydixd